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Aloysius

HT basics article

23 posts in this topic

I'm a newbie and have been looking for simple explanations of many of the terms that the more technically blessed forum members use.

I found this link to be a big help and commend it to other newbies:

http://hometheater.about.com/od/hometheate...etheaterfaq.htm

Happy learning!

Good link. Wish there was away (is there?) to print the whole thing in it's entirety without having to do it piecemeal a page-at-a-time.

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something like this should pinned up here as really picks up on the FAQs for HT

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How do I do that?

I pm'd coral hopefully gets put up.

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I pm'd coral hopefully gets put up.

Thankyou Alebonau and Lyle - I got the cute popup message re - pinning!

The article might minimise those over and over queries .

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well I went into that article expecting to get really pissed off at a lot of misinformation about CRT front projection (which i've enjoyed for many years in my home) I was surprised to find some factual and helpful info so I think the author is knowledgable. :D

http://hometheater.about.com/cs/television...rojectora_2.htm

there are some things in there are not true however and apply to some of the older all-analog sets that no one here in the states uses any longer. If I may

3. A CRT projector has to be converged properly for best image reproduction. Since the modern CRT projector houses three projection tubes (red, green, and blue), the tubes need to be aligned so that the projected image does not exhibit color halos and the colors are mixed correctly. Also, if one projection tube fails, all three have to be replaced in order to provide the correct color and brightness balance. This is not true, any 8" tubed electromagnetic focusing set or higher has full color temperature adjustment and you do NOT need to replace all 3 tubes. AAMOF, 75% of the sets need only a new Green tube since it produces up to 90% of the light at any given time. The Blue ooccasionaly needs replacing and the Red almost never. After installing a new tube, PERFECT color tracking can be dialed in with ease.

4. A CRT projector is, typically, very expensive. All things being equal, A CRT projector will command a much higher price that other types of video projectors, basically $10,000 on up for a suitable home theater CRT projector unit. well that used to be true, not any more. 8" EM focusing sets here in the US are diret cheap, in the $1K to $2.5K range with perfect tubes and even upgraded optics. they are currently the best value in high definition capable displays although the JVC RS1 DILA has passed them in overall performance.

I also skimmed thorugh some of the other stuff he talks about and a lot of that info is sorely out of date. I gaurantee that on a 1080P LCOS LCD you will NOT see screen door from more than 12 inches away. Now I like to sit really closoe to my screen, but not THAT close. :blink:

Someone needs to write up a new FAQ specifically for this forum that refelcts the state of modern HT today. Things have changed drastically in just the last year.

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yea good article thanks

still struggling with my Sony W series, HT and audio on the video channel. Ill keep searching for the info i need :)

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Can someone explain what "1 channel driven" actually means when reading it in AVR specs?

This refers to only driving 1 speaker at a time.

So if it's to do with power output, 100w driving only 1 channel, could drop to 50w when driving 2 channels and so on.

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Ok, probably should have expanded my question, as the answer doesn't help when trying to understand the following specs for an Onkyo AVR ::

175 W/Ch Continuous 6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1 Channel Driven, JEITA

Does it mean that if you wired two speakers into any of the channels, you'd only get 87.5W? (for that channel)

Edited by fademan

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Ok, probably should have expanded my question, as the answer doesn't help when trying to understand the following specs for an Onkyo AVR ::

175 W/Ch Continuous 6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1 Channel Driven, JEITA

Does it mean that if you wired two speakers into any of the channels, you'd only get 87.5W? (for that channel)

It basicly means it can produce 175W at 6ohms when driving only one channel(1 speaker). As soon as it has to drive more than one channel(say, both left and right speakers) at a time it's likely that power output could drop. It could maybe do 2 channels at that output, but highly unlikely it could drive 3, 5 or 7 channels at that output. Simply because the power supply of the unit won't output that much power.

I assume you're refering to the new SR606 ?

If you look at the specifications here you'll see it has a max power consumption of 550W. Therefore with 5 channels driven, it can not possibly output more than 110W, and then you have to take into consideration other parts of the unit that draw power from that same power supply. Display, video/audio processing, etc

So, basicly it's a bullsh1t figure. Alot of comapnies are guilty of doing this, Yamaha, Onkyo, Denon etc. Some being worse than others.

And for what it's worth, never ever run 2 speakers off the one terminal. It doesn't halve the wattage, it halves the ohm figure. So 2 6ohm speakers, turn into a 3ohm load. Most AVRs will not be too happy with a load like that.

Does that make a bit more sense ?

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Thanks for posting the explanation. Is it possible to post this info in the main FAQ, as many consumers would probably get confused with the dodgy specifications.

Are there any independent tests posted on the net to check actual power output of these units? I was thinking of buying some concert C-8 series speakers with the TX-SR705, figuring 180w/ch is plenty of power...when actually, with 5 speakers they would probably be lucky to draw 100W each!

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Having a read over this, seems useful so far. Cheers for the info.

I'm looking to buy a reciever and some speakers, but barely know where to start :P

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yeaa thanks for the link.

A total noob here regarding HT, but dad making me look into all this for the new about to be built theater room!!

Will have many questions to ask soon so please don't bite me if its noob! lolz

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