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About Mikeyday

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  1. Interestingly, that was almost how I started, my plan was to have 5.1 with in ceiling speakers with a 65" TV, that was until I actually heard them (several different brands). The only ones that came close for me were the Krix but in the end I needed the centre channel coming from the front, not the ceiling so went with KRIX Symmetrix in-wall as fronts and Atmospherix in-ceiling for surrounds, later added a pair of Dynamix rears and a second Sub, Seismix3. http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?/topic/216909-budget-quality-ht-setup/#comment-2066541 As @HDobsession mentioned, do yourself a favour and listen to and look at a few setups before you commit yourself to something difficult to change later.
  2. I sometimes have a similar problem within the first few minutes of starting the system up, then it goes away (Sony 40ES & Denon X2200W). I originally thought that it was only blu rays but I have it with FTA and games (that really annoys the kids during a car race). I have been blaming the very cheap 10m HDMI cable and figured that I will replace it one day. Now if I am going to watch a movie, I usually turn it on and walk out of the room to let it go away so I hardly ever see it now. Do you only have the issue during the first 15 minutes after turning it on?
  3. It may pay to check out your layout by marking the floor or scaling you plan, a quick look at your diagram makes me think that to have a screen 3m wide in the bay window area, allowing for window treatments, also screen bracket,etc. then with the seating clearing the doors, you may be closer than 2.5 meters eyes to screen. I have a bay window in the room next to the theatre, I have a reading chair in the bay window area which is like a single swiveling leather recliner with a foot rest, I could imagine that with the room around the other way, something like that behind the lounge could double as seating for a second row. Equipment could still be placed below the window behind the lounge. Just thoughts as only you know what feel to the room you want.
  4. When I saw the layout, I was thinking the same as Hopefullguy. However I thought that maybe you wanted to keep the seating facing the bay window for the view (hence the motorised screen)? Could be a good reason too? I was also thinking perhaps you were worried about the acoustic effect of sound reflections from a bay window that size (like a whispering gallery). I can see the benefits of that location for the lounge, about 2.5 to 3 metres from the screen, to clear the opening door (I have the same issue) however seating mid distance between the front speakers and the back wall apparently is not ideal for acoustics either. I would still consider benefits of a fixed screen on the other wall, unless these are outweighed by the benefits of your planned layout. I have seen quite a bit of interesting equipment come up for sale in the Perth area (and have bought some and shipped to SA) so keep an eye out and I am sure that you will find something, good luck.
  5. Out of curiosity, if the receiver has MultEQ XT32 and Sub EQ, why wouldn't you want to use both outputs so Audyssey can set the EQ properly with 2 subs?
  6. I understand now, the options you have listed are based on height restriction. If you could gain another 2mm (167mm), anything up to the Denon AVR-X6300H would fit however please remember that these things need to breath. Sometimes it can pay to work backwards and start with what you want to achieve in terms of features and technology then consider different ways of achieving that end. It may be that one of the ones listed will do the job, or it might be better to replace, adjust, reconfigure what you have now in the way of cabinetry or equipment to give you the flexibility you may need now or in the future.
  7. Actually, I was wrong, Denon has added individual EQ for 2 subs to the lower X3300W with the latest models. FWIW, the Marantz-nr1607 is only 50W per channel at 8 Ohm.
  8. The problem being that to get them set up as separate units as Hopefullguy quite rightly suggests is better, one would have to step up to the 4000 series in Denon (AVR-X4300W) at 3 times the price for brand new. (would like one myself actually)
  9. Each to their own I think. I built a couple stands for my lounge room just to push them a little further apart. The stands double as storage for disks. These speakers are front ported so can sit back close to the wall.
  10. Hi Wisha, I just noticed this comment. You need to find the SPDIF output connection on your TV. It's probably just called "COAX" and will be separate to the Yellow/Red/White inputs. Try to find that one and connect it, It should work then.
  11. Hi Wisha, These guys have given you great information on what to do; I had a similar problem recently with a Panasonic soundbar and old Samsung TV. On the Panasonic, from the menu you will find something like "Input Select". Determine the name of the optical input if it has multiple digital inputs (D in-1 or D in-2) or something similar. Select that as an input. On my Panasonic soundbar I think this can be done from the remote by scrolling through External inputs and it is named "TV". On the TV in the sound menu you must set your SPDIF to on, or auto or as CWT mentioned both TV and Panasonic may have bitstream or PCM (not a choice on mine). Although my equipment is a little different, the basics should be the same. Hope this helps otherwise check that you DC power is working on the converter and dust caps are off the optical cable. If this doesn't work, the guys above are sure to have more suggestions.
  12. I have a similar problem in my room; although I have solid double bi-fold doors into the room that don't seal well and solid doors to the next areas of the house which helps a bit with sound, I still have issues with heat building up in the room in summer as I have ducted evaporative cooling and the air gap around the door isn't sufficient. I can open the windows a bit for air flow however then I can hear outside sounds and I know that outside can hear me. I am considering adding ceiling vents somewhere up behind the projector or even adding refrigerated ducted HVAC for a few rooms. Fortunately for you, there is an opportunity to plan it now before you build. Just be aware that small exhaust vents in a room with evaporative cooling will make air noise.
  13. Hey, you're the OP, anyway, it is still related to the cabinet design. I have in-wall and in-ceiling speakers in my theatre and they are practically invisible, however, a pain to move or change out if I change my mind. If I ever sell, they will most probably stay as part of the house. In-wall speakers will eliminate at least the visible speaker wires as they can run in the wall from a wall plate or opening behind the receiver. They will allow for a very clean look and give you greater flexibility with cabinet design, also they will allow you to place the L & R speakers closer to inline with your display rather than well below it although in theory, your LCR speakers should have the tweeters at the same level if possible. On the topic of rear ported speakers in cabinets, others on here will have more experience than me, for a short while I had a cheap rear ported centre in the cabinet in the family room, often dialogue was not clear and a little muffled. I replaced it with a higher quality front ported centre and the difference was amazing however, that could have been mainly due to the quality of the speaker itself. Almost all of my speakers in both rooms are bass reflex front ported speakers except my new Krix bookshelf speakers I have as rears in the family room. I would be happy to be corrected on this topic by those that have more knowledge with in cabinet speakers.
  14. I can't help but agree with brodricj on this one but You have already identified that you understand that this is a "compromise to achieve the necessary aesthetic look". If you do this, one thing that I would recommend is that you consider only either sealed speakers or front ported bass reflex speakers. rear ported speakers will most likely be boomy and echo in cabinets. This is for both L & R and the centre. Most of us have made some compromises in both our multi purpose living areas and our theatres based on aesthetics, room shape, cost or WAF. As long as you understand the compromise and are happy with it. Back on your original topic, have a chat with your cabinet maker regarding methods to hide the cables, I had this issue with rear surround speakers under my breakfast bar in the kitchen, I ran the cables under the bench in a white conduit with a clip on cover. It was low enough and neat enough that you couldn't see it. I just recently changed it from a 6.1 to 5.1 and it was simple to un-clip the cover and change the wires.