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About fobfob

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  1. Dude, check out my post on page 43 of this thread.
  2. Any news on the scrolling lines issue? I would consider myself quite happy with the 3705 if not for this problem. I've had mine for about 10 months and it's still driving me up the wall. I've recently tried a power filter on the AC but that had no effect, so the lines must be either internally generated or received RF interference. I haven't been reading this thread for the last 30 or so pages, but has anyone (including Acer) made any progress identifying the cause of this problem? BTW for the record I use both the internal SD decoder and the HDMI input from HTPC (1080p, 50Hz). Another thing that drives me crazy with this set is the sequence of 4 presses of the AV button to get from the SD tuner to the HDMI. I use a Harmony remote to transition between activities (watching tv, playing video etc) but it's still a major pain having to hold up the remote for ~10 seconds to complete a transition.
  3. Cool And Quiet Psu

    At the risk of beating the dead horse, currently I have an Antec NEO HE 430W for 6 months in my HTPC, running 24/7 and I've had no issues at all. It is dead silent, and I'm running a dual core processor, along with 7 (seven) hard drives, and a reasonable graphics card (X700). Oh, and 5 internal tuners and and a few external devides: ipod and offboard wifi. Having said that, I am about to upgrade to a bigger PS and use this one in another PC. Although I'm under 430W in total, I'm not sure if I'm not overloading it on one line or other. I'd rather play it safe, and seeing as I need a new PS anyway... BTW I'm using an Antec p180 as well, which is a pretty sweet case, plenty of fan options (BTW this =! noise). The above machine is inaudible except in an extremely quiet room (eg. at 3am). Of course I'm using after market CPU and GPU coolers too (Zalman).
  4. This is an excellent thread. Lots of interesting advice. The only problem with this is when you say "it's a bit more than I wanted to pay" the first thing they will ask (before you can get up to leave), quick as a shot: "well then what did you want to pay?". My old man's response to this classic is "as little as possible" (my version: "$1.00"). Needless to say this doesn't go down too well. But in reality it's a fair response to what is really a trick question. It's not as if I really really want to spend $x,xxx on a tv. Even if I had the proverbial cash burning a hole in my pocket, there are plenty of other hare brained schemes I can waste my money on. Salespeople seem to assume that everyone has a hard budget and that the features are a secondary issue-> eg. I "need" a 32" tv and my budget is $1500. I, for one, do not work like this. One way or another I might find myself looking at comparable products, then I'll find the one I most want, based on features. If I can convince myself I need it (fall in love), I'll look for a good price. If I can't find or justify to myself paying that much money, I'll either give up on the whole crazy dream or start looking at the next desirable cheaper option. I don't have kids so I might have more to splash than some. But even if you are being careful, your available budget today is not the same as next week. By saying "I'll think about it" and walking out effectively resets the whole budget thing. Surely the salesperson is not really asking "what is your entire available at call cash/credit right this minute?"
  5. The BBC HD planet earth series, if you recorded that from ABC HD, is in 1280x720p. So that might be reason. One thing that gives me headaches is when some programs use the video overlay. I don't know if it's an ATI thing (I'm not using nvidia) but when using the video overlay it always reverts to some sort of oh-so-clever resolution that it thinks is adequate, usually it's around the same as the source resolution, but it maxes out at 1024x768 for me. And of course, being ATI, it's at 60Hz. So one of those might account for it. Or it just might be an nvidia thing. The hassles that I've had to overcome with this HTPC would fill an epic blog. And I could almost post daily as every night is a new adventure. Things go from "it just works" to "it won't work even if I re-install". Many of the problems are caused by Windows. Configuration-wise it's like trying to build a house on quicksand. I think the media gateway is pretty pissweak. I would be suprised if you can get much HD performance out of it. I don't know of any way..
  6. It has not been resolved, although some guy who took his apart reckons that installing a hack to reduce the backlight intensity (it is driven by a PWM signal from memory) may reduce or eliminate it. It is not clear whether some sets are worse than others since there is a considerable human factor involved. At the moment I'm living with it and after a few drinks it's not so annoying. I would not be buying one of these now unless you plan to connect it to a PC and use it as a monitor. Even then I'd be looking to get a good price on it (not much more than $2k).
  7. No. Yes. All Aussie TV including digital and analog, as well as DVDs, run at a refresh rate of 50Hz (interlaced). Yes, you will see it on any 50Hz source including the TV's internal tuner. You may even see it on the blue screen that the TV displays when there's no signal. 1080p is not difficult on the DVI input. Eliminating overscan is more difficult. For some reason HDMI is easier in this regard. See earlier pages of this thread.
  8. I've given up on the horizontal lines problem. I'm used to it now (!) If something got worse, either the lines problem or a new one developed, I would complain and I would be pushing for a refund. But right now it basically works as required. I don't recommend it to others, but it does do 1080p which is more than most. My warranty is 5 years and I expect it to be fully working right up to the end of the 5 years. After that, my money is on real next generation displays being affordable. I'm talking about high dynamic range, true blacks, no response issues, 50" or larger, for under $4k. I don't care what technology, LCD, plasma, SED, whatever. But that's what I'm aiming for. The Acer is just a stepping stone. There is only so long you can put up with a 4:3 59cm CRT, which is where I came from.
  9. Umm no, mybrains is correct. I don't see anyone pushing digital cameras for movies. The 4k you are talking about is just distribution. ie. it is scanned film (as Owen discusses).
  10. I stand corrected. It turns out 1080p really is dead!
  11. Exacary. All this Nyquist FUD is a total red herring. I don't even know why we are debating it. News flash! Not every picture contains alternating lines of one pixel in width! A line really is a line. A line does not consist of a line and the space next to it. I can still resolve a line that is right next to the previous line, without a gap (subject to viewing distance). Therefore I can see 1920x1080 resolution, and a signal really can contain this information after sharpening. Why do you care what the Nyquist limit is of 1920x1080? Why not discuss 1280x720 or 720x576? The highest frequency MTF pattern you can display is not relevant to everyday TV viewing. What people want to know is what resolution display to buy that is most future proof and does not limit them. The answer is of course dependant on viewing distance and screen size. However, below a certain distance, and above a certain size, the answer is simply 1920x1080.
  12. Sounds pretty good. Sharpening is pretty standad in digital photography. The only people who don't manually apply some unsharp mask or other sharpening are those with in camera sharpening turned on. The same could equally apply to video, given enough resources (maybe not in realtime?). This is FUD. Why single out 1920x1080? What exactly is your point? Only problem here is that digital video is compressed and such high frequency artifacts are removed (unless the bandwidth is particularly generous). However, I wonder if a time domain analysis of dithered signals can recover this accuracy.
  13. That is not a big deal for video. Your experience is with computers, where your text and other pixel perfect imagery looks like rubbish when scaled. TV video is usually not sharp enough for that to be noticeable. Due to overscan etc, there is really no such thing as 1:1 pixel mapping with LCD TVs anyway. So scaling 720p to 768p is not a big deal providing it is done correctly.
  14. I think they may still have some at the powerhouse museum :ph34r:
  15. MLXXX, this is the best post on this topic that I have read. The number of resolvable lines given a particular resolution is irrelevant. It is not a basis for choosing display resolution, if ultimate PQ is your goal. The ultimate PQ will be achieved with a display of the same resolution as your input source. Anytime you have to scale down, you will lose information, even if the "effective" information in your input signal is only "equivalent" to the lower resolution. In your example, to display a 800 vertical line resolving 1080p signal at say a theoretical display device of 800 lines across, means that your moving line is now only one pixel wide, and as it moves across the screen you will have the same problem that you originally described. The uncertainty of where to place that pixel when its "halfway" between two will lead to distortion. Still camera (DSLR) is also a red herring because although they have antialiasing filters, with post processing (sharpening) you can resolve down to a single pixel of detail. Anyone who thinks a 1DS can only resolve 2300 or so lines might like to take their chances posting such on or dpreview. But be warned... One last thing. Any issues relating to "aliasing", "nyquist" or the infamous "kell factor" affect signals of any resolution. So these "problems" also relate to good old 720x576i that we are mostly watching right now. But no-one woud seriously suggest that all you need to resolve the full detail is a 350x256 (approx) display. (Hey that's like my ipod).