Hi, my teac dvb300 is displaying the message a1.07 on its screen. It is not outputting anything.
What should i do?

Hi again,
Have you tried doing a Factory Reset & then a rescan? Maybe some software lockup has occured - of course, firsty try powering off at the mains & powering up again if you haven't already.

factory reset??? wheres that button.
I have unplugged.... but the thing is i cannot do anything, i cannot turn it on or off, access any menus or anything like that - its just a1.07

Hi again,
No, factory reset is only accessible via the menus - sorry, didn't know you couldn't access any of those. Contact Teac or email them via the website - they may be able to advise - http://stb.teac.com.au

More information....

Ok, i left it off overnight, and then turned it on and it worked..... but it hapened again.

What hapens is you click the event button on channel 9, go to next's event, and the screen goes green and then it freezes.

Ok, well i think the best thing to do here would be to upgrade the software on this damn thing...even if a new one is coming out soon.

As you all well know, nothing can hapen to me without somethign going wrong. As many philosophers say, (matrix reloaded) everything has a purpose.

My purpose is to completely fail at anything hardware related.

Until you find your purpose in life id like you to humour a n00b for a few seconds

ok, i got it plugged in, its a small serial cable that goes into a big one...

the big one is the size of printer cords... the plug is male.

Ive got it plugged itno the main plug right next to the motherboard. I follow the instructions to download the software but nothing happens.

HAve i got the right type of cord or wat!

thnx you guws pwn.

You have to have a null-modem cable to update the Teac

I just realised, 9's epg is frozen from friday....... is that my stb or channel 9?

Did you ever resolve this problem?

My DVB300 is suddenly displaying the "A1.07" message. Have e-mailed TEAC but no reply yet.



Dave

Mine has just done the same, any help?

Where do you guys live? It seems funny that suddenly they should all fail like that. I wonder if there is somthing in the ch 9 signal the box doesnt like?

Not really.

The reply I got back from Teac said:

"Sounds like a powersupply problem has occurred in the unit causing abotting failure. Sorry to say that the only way to correct this is by servicing the uinit."

Dave

I'm actually wondering if there is any connection between the "a1.07" message and the fact that the latest firmware upgrade is version 1.07.

Anyway, just in case it helps anyone else, a more detailed description of my problem follows:

The first thing we noticed was that our picture quality had suddenly deteriorated.

We tried doing a fresh channel search but the fresh scan could only find a few channels out of those normally available. (We are in the Shellharbour/Wollongong area and at first we thought that the transmitter at Knights Hill may have been having problems, as we were only picking up Sydney channels on the fresh scan.)

I tried turning off the box and turning it back on, but nothing changed. I then turned it off. left it a day or two and turned it back on again.

On turning it on, the box displayed a "boot" message but locked up. The TV screen was slowly changing between a blue screen and black screen.

I then unplugged the box completely and after a few minutes tried again. This time the display showed the "a1.07" message and then after a few minutes went back to "boot" and locked up again. This time there was also one green screen as well as the blue/black screens.

I left it on overnight and it eventually booted up. A new channel scan found only Sydney Channel 7 and Sydney Channel 9. I also did several factory resets, but nothing changed.

The other day I decided to try a firmware upgrade, so I disconnected it to move it to my computer room and now I am back to getting the "a1.07" message again.

I'm now going to try leaving it on again, hoping it will boot up long enough to attempt the firmware upgrade.

(The box is still running version 1.03 of the firmware, which is what was in it when we purchased it in 2003. We have not had any problems at all with this unit before this).

If that doesn't work then I guess I try to find a local Teac repair man, although I suspect it may actually be cheaper to ditch it and buy a new box.

I'll let you know how things pan out.

Dave

Your not going to believe this but mine has also just crashed! I've cycled the power and usually get the a1.07 display or occasionally the display shows the standby image '----' but get's stuck at 'boot' when powered up. It's also not displaying a picture to the monitor.

My box didn't die watching channel 9, it died moving from the eastern suburbs to the north shore. I thought initially that the change in broadcasting frequencies might of confussed it and left it overnight, but no success this morning.

Any other tips?

How can so many boxes suddenly all display the same problem? Did someone try and update these boxes over the air?

Listen to teac.It will be your power supplies that are failing
Switchmode Power supplies are notorious for failing after 12-18 months and cause the early demise of most modern electronic equipment.
Good ventillation is the key to longativity of modern EQ.
Cramming into entertainment units as we all do is bad.
Unfortunately whole replacement boards have never been available to just buy and plug in in the domestic electronics sevicing industry and technicians have to isolate faulty components and replace them.
It is the technology that causes the early failure and not the companies .Under warranty repairs can send them broke so its not done on purpose.

Well, you were exactly right. Took it to a TEAC repair centre in Dandenong, Vic and they told me that it was that. $40 for the repair. Thanks mate.

Ya my Teac 300 Died the other day, with very simmilar symptoms plus it's comming up with a1.07, well thanks for the postings I know what I need to do with it now, although it's good excuse to update to the intractive box!

(sorry about the bad spelling)

After seeing this message, I decided to take mine to the local TEAC repair place. It cost me $20 for them to take a look at it and another $30 to fix it. (Only hassle was that it took them three weeks to look at it and give me a quote. Once that was done, it was repaired overnight).

A nice little bonus was that the repair included the software upgrade to Version 1.07 that I was going to do myself.

Just finished setting it up and all is well again. Thanks for the tip!

After my DV-B300 suffered the same fate (approx. 2 years old), I decided to fix it myself.

It was a 100uF/16V cap that was reading extremely high ESR, like greater than 100 ohms! It should be lower at about 0.9 ohms.

I suggest, for those of you who are willing and your box is out of warranty, replace all elctrolytic caps on the low voltage side if the transformer.

Most of the caps I checked were reasonable except the above mentioned one, but it would be good practice to replace them all with 105 Degree temperature rated caps. NOT the 85 degree caps they put in at the factory.

Total cost is less then $5 and takes 30 about minutes to complete from start to finish.

Cheers,
Col.

Add mine to the list of dead marines. It died 2 years to the day after being first plugged in.

Touch Wood, mine's still going strong past the 2 year mark.

did a factory reset on my DVB-300 yesterday and the whole thing just crashed.
no display at all cant even get into the menu.

any idears?.

went and bought on of the new panasonic sd boxes TU-SZT105A.
seem to work well with all the right conection for my setup.

Mine has this problem, but I can usually get it to turn on by thumping it a couple of times on the top

Its been retired to the bedroom now, because its not reliable anymore.

Just had this happen with mine - same error - a faulty 1000uF/10V cap. Replaced it with a 105 degree Celcius cap and all is fine.
Thanks for the suggestion.

the 10v 1000uf one just 'slips' off.
so its easy to replace.

Do i need to replace them all or just this one?

Had the same error message. I read this string of messages and decided to fix the unit myself. Opened the box, removed the transformer. Located the 10/1000 capacitor and removed it with pliers (by the way it does not pull straight off, it is well and truly attached) took the transformer to a local electrical repair place and got him to attach a new cap. Unit now seems fine. Total cost of repair $3.30. By the way the unit was out of warranty and I wasn't that bothered if this repair did not work. I't's all good.

Was that the DSE 7659 that you fixed. I have one that went yesterday at 18 months and am going to see if I can do it too. It looks the same as the Teac model ?

Andy

My DSE 7659 has two 1000uf/10V electrolytics right next to the heatsink with swollen tops, a pretty sure sign they are on the way out. I did a crude test with my DMM and neither are shorted or open so my only hope is they are way off. All the caps are 105C rated and look ok so this will only gain me more time if replacing them fixes the problem.

If I can't get it going with a quick component substitution I'll probably have to dust off my old Trio scope and check a few voltages. I can't see the mainboard being affected by the heat due to the layout so the PSU is still it for me.

Andy

Hi Col,

Any hints as to which cap it was? mine has gone south as well and it's worth spending alittle time to try a new cap but a hint as to which one to look at first.

Cheers

Dave[


quote name='Col T' date='Aug 2 2005, 07:29 PM' post='238705']
After my DV-B300 suffered the same fate (approx. 2 years old), I decided to fix it myself.

It was a 100uF/16V cap that was reading extremely high ESR, like greater than 100 ohms! It should be lower at about 0.9 ohms.

I suggest, for those of you who are willing and your box is out of warranty, replace all elctrolytic caps on the low voltage side if the transformer.

Most of the caps I checked were reasonable except the above mentioned one, but it would be good practice to replace them all with 105 Degree temperature rated caps. NOT the 85 degree caps they put in at the factory.

Total cost is less then $5 and takes 30 about minutes to complete from start to finish.

Cheers,
Col.
[/quote]

Mine has suffered the same fate after about 2 years, I think we should all learn something from this. This was the first Teac appliance I ever bought and I think it will be the last. Clearly, this is a design flaw and should qualify for a factory recall by Teac for a free overhaul. I opened mine and found 2 16V 100uF capacitors on LV side of the transformer. Any idea which one is the failing one?

My first post so forgive me if I stuff it up. Pretty amazing reading this thread. Mine failed 2 nights ago with the old A1.07 error. 3 Years old and well ventilated. Thinking about doing it myself also. I presume I should use a soldering iron to release the capacitors on LV side. I can't see any visible damage so will start with the ones you suggest. Thanks to everyone, might save a few dollars.

Well it turned out mine is not like the Teac as I thought but the symptom and fix is the same. 64c ea for two 1000uf/10V/105C caps and I've got it up and running again. Thanks to those who posted what they had done.

Andy

All,
Last week my DVB 300 failed in exactly the same manner as Dave Hickey (see 27 June 05). I had diagnosed to the 5V portion of the powersupply (was down to 3V) ... then I found this forum - replaced the 1000uF cap and all is good now.
Thanks for the tips,
Stephen

Looks like I now have the same problem. Not smart enough to do the job myself unless theres anyone that can supply any pics as to what actually needs replacing or anybody in Northern Tasmania that would be willing to do the job for me at a reasonable price.

Cheers

I also have one that is collecting dust awaiting my attention, and a few pics for a n00b would be great.

just want to thank everyone for the information in regaurds to dv-b300 mind has that error code as well a107 i will be going out 2morrow to replace those parts that all have replaced thanks for the advice
i could only find one 16v 100uf and one 10v 1000uf cap in the box that i have not sure which one has gone but will replace both.
thanks guys

Hi guys,

Well there certainly has been some interest in the repair of this box hasn't there?

Over the next couple of days, I'll disassemble my digi box and get some pics of the caps that need to be replaced.

I'll try get them uploaded here or I'll stick a link in pointing to a web site with all the info.

For those of you who are keen on doing the work (or any future repair) in electronics, I suggest buying a LOW ESR (Equivilent Series Resistance) test kit from Dick Smith Electronics.

This kit will tell you which electrolytic capacitor is faulty straight away without even having to desolder it from the board for testing.

If you have any questions, please feel free to drop me a Personal Message anytime. I'm always more than glad to help.

And for those of you who may not want to repair it yourself, if you wish please drop me a Personal Message and we can discuss the possiblity of me repairing it for you.

Cheers,
Col.

Sounds great, Col. Looking forward to the pics etc...

I've had my Teac DV-B300 for about 3 years. Today it started making poping/crackling noises and showing corrupt pictures / dropping frames.

Firstly i thought it was a reception problem. However on closer inspection I noticed that there was a quite audible high pitched squeal coming from the power supply area. After powering the unit up and down a few times, it now won't boot and is displaying the dreaded A1.07 error message.

Physical inspection of the power supply caps shows no swolen or leaky caps though the high pitched squeal is generally a good indication of a bad cap somewhere.

My knowledge of switched mode power supplies is not that great. If anyone has successfully replaced the caps and fixed this issue, if you could let me know what to replace that would be tops.

Cheers
- Troy

Hello,

I'm still working on those pictures and a walk through. Hopefully, I'll have it finished in the next couple of days.

Troy, replace C7 which is a 1000uF @ 16 volts (just make sure to match or improve the voltage rating slightly ). Also make sure that you replace it with a cap with a temperature rating of 105 degrees C, not 85 .

That should cure your problem.

Cheers,
Col.

Hi guys!

My DVB300 has just gone the same way as many others reported here - no output and displaying a1.07 error. If it's just the caps, I would like to fix it myself but I'm a total noob. If you could post that walkthrough sometime soon, Col, I'd be another one that would much appreciate it!

Thanks in advance,
Net

I have had the A1.07 error message come up today also. It is really making not want to buy this brand again. If someone can help me I would love some advice. I have read the fix above but stil need further information as I am not as good with this as some of you guys. Are those pictures available? They would be a great help. I want to watch my TV!!!!



Could you let me know if you get any help as I am in the same boat as of today!!!

Hi Dallas,

Looks like Col T has forgotten about, given up on or just can't post that walkthrough right now. Luckily, the net beening that wonderful repository of information that is, similar walkthroughs are available. My quick search for "replacing bad caps" reveal lots of sites. I found http://www.procooling.com/index.php?func=a...es&disp=147 was quite helpful.

For noobs like us, the real question is it is worth the hassle, cost (of purchasing a quality soldering iron) and potential disaster versus getting a professional to do it or just buying a new STB (which can be had for anything from $60 to $200 depending on quality).

Then again, it might be a handy skill to develop.

Net

Seems this STB is victim to the bad capacitor plague. I'll have to keep a look out if mine fails.

Hi. I am only new to this sort of thing and have never posted before... Just wanted to let you know that when I moved my DV-B300 today to another room and plugged it in I got the dreaded A1.07 error. I have had this unit for several years (Since they first came out). Thanks to the information already supplied in this forum I atttended the local electronic store, spent the 60c and replaced the 10V/1000 capacitor.

Plugged the unit in and all works like a charm again. Only last week I had my old UEC unit die and bought another cheapie to replace it.....my wife would have had a spare if I had to spend more money on another one.

Anyway, thanks again and keep up the good work.

G'day All
I Joined up so I could thank everyone for the helpful posts. Yep my DVB300 died after about 18mths. Took it to the local repair tech , he suggested I throw it in the bin. I just knew it was the power supply,I have had a bit of esperience as I am an old/ ex telephone technician so I come home and found you blokes on the net. Well the rest is history, with a new 70 cent Cap as suggested, I dug out the old soldering iron an went to work. Needless to say the DVB300 is once again working like a charm. Now what do you people know about cleaning out the internal lens's of a Dell data projector... guess thats a question for another forum. Isn't it clever how they can get this stuff to last around 6 - 18 months out from the end of warranty before it crashes.... call me a cynic. Once again THANKYOU for sharing your knowledge.

Hi Everyone,
I also joined so that I could say thanks to all those that posted information here about this error. My DV-B300 failed about 3 months ago and rather than throwing it in the bin I threw it in the garage thinking one day I would get around to having a look at it. Finally, I got around to it. Before I even removed 1 screw from the case I did a search for DV-B300 in google and instantly found this forum thread, don't you just love the internet........and google......

Anyway, I have a small amount of electronics experience but mainly in replacing components and working with hardware, I don't have the old school years of experience to know I needed to check what component for what voltage or resistance values etc. So a BIG thanks to the guys that identified the suspect components.

As my way of saying thankyou I will post back some of the knowledge I gained from this little experience for those that may be new to electronics but still want to give repairing it a go.

The nice thing about the DV-B300 is the power supply is quite simple and abviously not built to be squeezed into a small enclosure, this makes it easier for anyone to replace individual components, experienced or not, also the circuit board is screen printed with component numbers, location marks and polarity marks which makes the whole job that much easier for a guy like me.

Here is a list of the 9 Electrolytic Capacitors on the Low Voltage side of the transformer that the previous posts are talking about, C7 the big one, seems to be the culprit as others suggest, but looking at the price of replacing them and the temp rating of the new ones I decided to replace all 9:

Board Location ___ Old Rating ________ New Rating _______ Jaycar # ___ Qty __ Price
C7 _____________ 1000uF 10v - 85c __ 1000uF 16v - 105c _ RE6220 _____ 1 ___ $0.70
C25, C26 ________ 100uF 16v - 85c ___ 100uF 16v - 105c __ RE6130 _____ 2 ___ $0.32
C27, C28 ________ 22uF 50v - 85c ____ 22uF 63v - 105c ___ RE6080 _____ 2 ___ $0.28
C19, C20 ________ 470uF 10v - 85c ___ 470uF 16v - 105c __ RE6194 _____ 2 ___ $0.55
C17 ____________ 1uF 50v - 85c _____ 1uF 63v - 105c ___ RE6032 _____ 1 ___ $0.25
C18 ____________ 10uF 50v - 85c ____ 10uF 63v - 105c __ RE6075 _____ 1 ___ $0.25

Here is a photo before the operation:

[img]http://www.users.on.net/~pagedm/lowside.jpg[/img]

So, there you go. Give it a try, If your like me, a little handy with hardware and didn't want to fork out the $40 - $60 bucks to have TEAC or someone service the unit but don't mind spending $4.00 and 45mins to see what you can do, then give it a go.....

ALWAYS REMEMBER: Double check the power supply is disconnected and unplugged before opening the DV-B300 case, electricity bites ......... hard!

I can't get my nice layed out table and photo to display properly on this post so I have done a web page for it:

http://www.users.on.net/~pagedm/dv-b300.html

I hope this helps

Hi Gang

Just to repeat what Pagedm has said, electricity does bite, with big teeth too!! On the high voltage section of that power supply board, the main storage cap is fed via a diode bridge from the 240 AC main, which charges it up to 340 Volts DC.
Switch mode power supplies turn on and off that high voltage through the primary side of that transformer, generally at a frequency of 3 to 10 kilohertz. With such a high switching frequency, the capacitors on the secondary side can be much smaller in value.
But when heat from the powersupply degrades the chemical composition of those capacitors, their respective value drops, and all sorts of fun begins.
One way to check accurately exactly which caps are faulty is with an ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) tester, which measures the capacitor value at a high frequency.
Capacitors in swith mode supplies should have an ESR from 0.1 to 20 ohms, depending upon the value. Faulty capacitors will have a much higher ESR, than a "fresh" cap. But a wholesale purge couldn't hurt. It saves you having to do this all again in 6 months time.!

Mark