The Strong fix requires a 200uF 16V cap to replace the incorrect 100uF unit, whereas the common value is 220uF ... any high order electronics gurus care to speculate if theres any trouble using 220uF? Or do I have to spend $30 on fuel searching for a place with those $0.38 rarer 200uF caps?!?

Thanks,
Santa - iron in hand, poised to destory his PVR!

NB: Normally I wouldn't be asking, but given the variety of solutions which supposedly work for this problem ... you never know!

No idea what its supposed to fix, but that sounds a lot like a power supply related cap, so 220uF vs 200uF shouldn't cause any issues. Then again, with the HUUUUGE variation in an electrolytic's capacitance, it shouldn't be an issue regardless of what the cap really does*.

*not a high order guru :-)

If its got a 100 one in there, and theyre replacing it with a 200 one, I doubt GST ontop of that 200 would make any difference.. (hell, its not my STB just make the solder thin :-))))

Cheers
Bitey (whom has no idea about such things)

It won't matter at all, but the reason the original 100uF capacitors fail is they are not low ESR capacitors by using 220uF should solve the problem of failing as the higher the value the lower the ESR is.

I have replaced several 5390's caps now with 2 x 220uf 25V 105C low ESR caps that are available from Altronics or Jaycar.

rgds Damon

Thanks.

I was guessing that the "GST" wouldn't make a big difference given the doubling, but who am I to guess whether whole multiples are better or not in this application?!?

I wonder how long before the resistance climbs up over the magic threshold for these babies?

Thanks again.... now, before I start ... where's that drink to steady my hands...

I just replaced C15 with a 220 uF 16V capacitor and my Strong 5390 is working great again. A few people seem to be recommending changing C16 as well.....seems you don't need to.

Yep mines cruisin' ATM...

BTW: I put a step-by-step list into the other thread on this subject, but that thread seems to have disappeared... so I won't go through it again in case it was removed to prevent liability in case of things going BANG in the night!

Now you have got me worried.

I just replaced C15 and C16 with 100uf 25v Low ESR Capacitors the only difference being the higher voltage.

Nothings gone "bang" just yet. but it has fixed the reception and dropout problems with it.

If anyone discovers their err.. box... has gone bang in the night, to the extent it "lights up" there are some in the following thread who may appreciate being informed. http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?showtopic=17512&hl=

Col

As electroylics age their capacitance remains virtually unchanged but their working voltage drops,so it is always better to replace a troublesome electrolytic capacitor with one of a higher working voltage if it will fit.

Say a 16vw electrolytic with a 25vw or even a 35vw one especially if it is associated with a power supply.
Higher capacitance can be an advantage but even 220uf is not particularly large unless it is associated with a voltage regulator.

C.M

Just a short note of thanks to this message board regarding the Strong 5390.

I have a 5390, one of the really old 80 GB models. It must be at least 3 years old, probably *much* older than that. I can't remember

This is a one-TV houshold, and the Strong gets used every time anyone watches TV.

Anyway, I really like it. The picture quality is excellent.

You probably know the next bit: One day the picture started getting bad reception. Pops and squeeks on the audio, freezes and pixelation on the video. Then the 'bad or no signal' error message started showing its face. It looked like the end of the road for the beloved 5390. But, as it had well and truely earned it's purchase price many times over, I was OK about that.

Rather than spend money immediately I Googled the symptoms and found some advice - here - about replacing the capacitors in the power supply.

About $1 and 15 minutes of effort later, the 5390 is back to life! it's as good as new.

Thanks to everyone who took the effort to post the sollution here. You've saved me the cost of a new PVR. In fact, you've saved me a lot more than that - I probably would have jumped into HD once the wallet got opened, meaning a new PVR and a new TV! ouch!

thanks,

- Geoff.

Hi All,

I have a problem with my Strong SRT5390 set top box.

Its about 4 yrs old with a history of a few quirky problems.

It had a recording problem (would only record about 10 mins of a program
then stop.) which was diagnosed by the Strong people in Melbourne as "a
common problem" (I assumed the "capacitor" problem which was talked about
in various web forums). I sent it to them for repair but it returned with
the same fault. (Not sure if the caps had been replaced...)
After a few of my own swap out and try diagnostics (I only have limited
electronics experience) I found the original hard drive was stuffed and
replaced with a new drive and all has been well for the past few years.

It hasn't seen a lot of use lately, but this afternoon it started up fine
when turned on, but after about 5 minutes or so it got a lot of digital loss
and then the "bad or no signal" message was displayed. There is plenty of
signal and quality on the "tuner state" meter when working normally & other
devices on the antenna system are working fine.

After a bit of stuffing around with it I found that the box would work when
first turned on, but after a few minutes it would loose signal. After a
switch off and restart, it would again work fine for a few minutes, then
loose signal again...On further investigation I found that the signal loss
occurs when the hard drive turns off. IE: when the unit boots up the hard
drive starts, and everything works fine. When the drive turns off (I guess
as the machine senses the drive is not being "used" that's when the signal
loss happens. I confirmed this is the root of the problem by going to the
recorded programs list (which also re-starts the Hard Drive) then the signal
is received ok again. When drive stops, signal is lost...

Got out the trusty multimeter to check voltages etc and all seems fine,
except that the pin marked 22v on the PSU board seems to have no power at
any time???

Any one have any ideas? Any thoughts or suggestions of a likely cause would
be appreciated, especially if this sounds like the common C15 C16 capacitor
issue... If so, I would definately drag out the soldering iron and change them over myself.

Although the box is getting a bit old I don't want to upgrade right now as
others in the house are just getting used to using the thing and a change
right now would not be in my best interests....

Thanks for reading and any suggestions!

Gary.