Newbie
#1
Posted 16 May 2012 - 07:15 PM
#2
Posted 16 May 2012 - 09:34 PM
The TW9000 group buy yorac's running is the best option if you go for that model. Without knowing room size and mounting issues it's not possible to know if it will give the image size for a 120" screen.
I went from a Pioneer 60" Kuro to a 130" screen and would never go back. If you have full light control in the room the picture will impress all but the strictest critics.
#3
Posted 17 May 2012 - 05:55 PM
Like Quark says, once you've owned an HD projector, you can never go back to TV!
#4
Posted 17 May 2012 - 10:07 PM
709er, on 17 May 2012 - 05:55 PM, said:
Like Quark says, once you've owned an HD projector, you can never go back to TV!
#5
Posted 17 May 2012 - 10:32 PM
You really should sit closer than 5m and/or increase the screen size. The rule of thumb is to sit 3x screen height, but personal preferences vary.
For a 16:9 120" screen that works out to 1.488 x 3 = 4.64m. However if you're watching a scope movie only 75% of the height is used, so 1.488 x .75 x 3 = 3.48m seating distance. A 130" screen at ~4.5m is likely to be a good compromise between size, varying movie aspect ratios and keeping adequate brightness for 3D viewing. For a screen I'd recommend an OZTS as a good balance between price and performance - see here. Note, the screen requires assembly, but it's not too difficult. Projector and screen will be well under your budget, even if you get some extra 3D glasses.
Before finalising on your screen size you may want to project onto the wall for a week or so. It doesn't take long to get used to a huge screen and best not to buy something too small then regret it.
Edited by Quark, 17 May 2012 - 10:34 PM.
#6
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:51 AM
Have seen the 9000 at a couple members houses and it is a great PJ! Couple that with an Oztheatre 1.26 gain screen and it will look stunning!
Also, try and keep 1500-1800mm from back wall as that will help acoustics.
What is ceiling height as a 130" screen is 1.62m high plus 15 cm for frame so close to 1.8m. If you put screen frame up against ceiling then with 2.4 m ceiling there is 600mm space below. Would this be ok? Probably can't put equipment in front under screen but centre speaker should be ok with 600mm height. If you have 2.7 ceilings then you have more options.
Width of 130" screen is about 3.03 metres (including frame) so about 500mm either side for speakers. Will this be enough?
Epson is bright but with a 130" screen would still recommend a 1.26 gain screen (Oztheatre screen is 1.26 gain) and have PJ lens mounted at 4.5-4.7 metres from screen. This should provide ample brightness until expected lamp end-of-life.
As 709'r says, once you go PJ you will never go back.
I had a Pioneer LX609 and loved it. PQ was excellent. I believe the PJ is even better!
Having said this I still watch tV programs on the TV except for major events or movies.
If you do go with Epson and GB then that supplier can also provide you with an Oztheatre screen.
Re mount I am a big fan of the peerless PRG-UMV mount.
They are almost 400 here but can buy from Amazon US for about $110 delivered!!
I needed an extension and Screen Technics who are the distributor for Peerless here in Australia make a great extension system for the Peerless mount. Bought a 600mm extension from them for $110 so the whole thing cost me $220.
I have the model numbers of the extension if you decide to go that way and it can be had from any dealer that sells Screen Technics kit. I bought mine from my local HIFi shop.
#7
Posted 18 May 2012 - 08:29 AM
putting yourself 1.5 to 1.8m away from the back wall will pay big dividends in regards acoustics.
If wondering how compares PQ wise do check out for yourself, also check the owners thread have posted some screen shots there, not adjusted for white balance or colour balance and just quick hand held shots using in camera metering so not totally representative of what will see but give you some clues kind of PQ can have. which is bloody amazing in my opinion for a pj given the outlay. even with a bit of ambient light in the room eg in real world conditions if have people over and dont want to sit in the pitch black you will be suprised how well it goes in those conditions. again if wanting that plasma pop to the picture go for a smaller screen and sit closer rather than too big a screen have to sit miles away from. if can project up on the wall would be putting screen on you'll soon work out what is most ideal for you
big tick for the peerless mount too. just get it dont fluff around. for a pj this size and if want to dial things in perfectly saves you a whole lot of fuss and bother as has precise adjustment in all axis at your finger tips
as to wireless it works seamlessly but if getting cabling done I'd get a hdmi cable run in anycase wont add much to overall cost.
#8
Posted 18 May 2012 - 05:44 PM
Quark, on 17 May 2012 - 10:32 PM, said:
You really should sit closer than 5m and/or increase the screen size. The rule of thumb is to sit 3x screen height, but personal preferences vary.
For a 16:9 120" screen that works out to 1.488 x 3 = 4.64m. However if you're watching a scope movie only 75% of the height is used, so 1.488 x .75 x 3 = 3.48m seating distance. A 130" screen at ~4.5m is likely to be a good compromise between size, varying movie aspect ratios and keeping adequate brightness for 3D viewing. For a screen I'd recommend an OZTS as a good balance between price and performance - see here. Note, the screen requires assembly, but it's not too difficult. Projector and screen will be well under your budget, even if you get some extra 3D glasses.
Before finalising on your screen size you may want to project onto the wall for a week or so. It doesn't take long to get used to a huge screen and best not to buy something too small then regret it.
#9
Posted 18 May 2012 - 06:46 PM
#10
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:18 PM
Quark, on 18 May 2012 - 06:46 PM, said:
Bit confused on question.
I thought the Epson wifi connected out of the AVR or Oppo via HDMI and connected to PJ via wireless.
So the issue he has I think is he would have Oppo HDMI 1 to Epson wireless and Oppo HDMI 2 to AVR for audio as he currently has HDMI 1 going to the TV which he is replacing with the Epson PJ. He will now need a HD STB and needs to connect it to?????
I am not sure but the Epson wireless transmitter may only support a single HDMI in. If that is the case then he just needs a HDMI switch to connect oppo HDMI 1 out and HDSTB to Epson wireless transmitter.
He would also need to connect a SPIDF optical/coax to AVR for STB audio though some have had lipsync problems when doing this with some STB's ( me being one of them).
#11
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:20 PM
#12
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:35 PM
bbar, on 18 May 2012 - 07:18 PM, said:
I thought the Epson wifi connected out of the AVR or Oppo via HDMI and connected to PJ via wireless.
So the issue he has I think is he would have Oppo HDMI 1 to Epson wireless and Oppo HDMI 2 to AVR for audio as he currently has HDMI 1 going to the TV which he is replacing with the Epson PJ. He will now need a HD STB and needs to connect it to?????
I am not sure but the Epson wireless transmitter may only support a single HDMI in. If that is the case then he just needs a HDMI switch to connect oppo HDMI 1 out and HDSTB to Epson wireless transmitter.
He would also need to connect a SPIDF optical/coax to AVR for STB audio though some have had lipsync problems when doing this with some STB's ( me being one of them).
bbar, you're right I am assuming the Epson wireless transmitter only has one input. I think you're on the right track with a HDMI switch - suspect the best approach if the STB has HDMI output would be:
STB HDMI output to AVR input.
Oppo HDMI2 output to AVR input.
Oppo HDMI1 output to HDMI switch input.
AVR HDMI output to HDMI switch input.
HDMI switch output to Epson wireless sender.
The GB retailer should be able to provide a HDMI switch, or use EZYHD, who are quick and reliable.
matthewa, on 18 May 2012 - 07:20 PM, said:
#13
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:50 PM
Quark, on 18 May 2012 - 07:35 PM, said:
STB HDMI output to AVR input.
Oppo HDMI2 output to AVR input.
Oppo HDMI1 output to HDMI switch input.
AVR HDMI output to HDMI switch input.
HDMI switch output to Epson wireless sender.
The GB retailer should be able to provide a HDMI switch, or use EZYHD, who are quick and reliable.
That would be fine if the AVR was able to pass 3D, but it isn't.
#14
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:54 PM
chrisso1671, on 18 May 2012 - 07:50 PM, said:
I am sure Al said his Epson 9000 works perfectly with 3D over wireless. PM him . His handle is : followed by ) which looks like
#15
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:56 PM
Quark, on 18 May 2012 - 07:35 PM, said:
STB HDMI output to AVR input.
Oppo HDMI2 output to AVR input.
Oppo HDMI1 output to HDMI switch input.
AVR HDMI output to HDMI switch input.
HDMI switch output to Epson wireless sender.
The GB retailer should be able to provide a HDMI switch, or use EZYHD, who are quick and reliable.
That would be fine if the AVR was able to pass 3D, but it isn't.
Even better as saves putting a SPIDF to AVR for STB !
#16
Posted 18 May 2012 - 07:58 PM
wireless is only a substitute for one hdmi cable not two. so in long run I would either look to update your avr then everything can run to it and be used as a switching hub and the wireless to the pj.
or use a switcher or if can get a cable run during installation. cable is likely only $50 for a 10m one and most installations include running a hdmi cable, so wont cost you much more at all
#17
Posted 18 May 2012 - 08:31 PM
chrisso1671, on 18 May 2012 - 07:50 PM, said:
As : ) mentioned, the bandwidth is there. However, in practice things may be different - everyone's going wireless nowadays and you have devices sharing the same spectrum. At some point, now or in the future, there's only so much data going to be able to be pushed in a fixed spectrum. If you need to get a sparky around to install a powerpoint for the projector, may as well get a HDMI cable installed then too.
#18
Posted 02 June 2012 - 07:27 PM
#19
Posted 03 June 2012 - 06:43 AM
chrisso1671, on 02 June 2012 - 07:27 PM, said:
5 metres back is fine.
You probably want the PJ lens no higher than the top of the screen image and that may mean you will need a pole. You will need to check the manufacturer guidelines for the installation. Will be in the manual and/or on their Website.
I have a Peerless mount and you can get the extension from Screen Technics via any hifi-shop/theatre-place that sells Screen Technics. Comes in different lengths and you can cut to suit if need be. I got the model number PRG060B which is 60cm long and cut a bit off and there is also the PRG030B which is 30cm. The 'B' stands for black.
Great mount and great extension. Both extremely well made.
Only other advice is don't fix side speakers until you have tested out seating as I bet you will move seating forward to about 4.2 metres after a month or so as you may find 5 metre seating too far for a 115" screen.
Having at that position will also improve acoustics as keeping 1.8m from back wall would be about optimum.
#20
Posted 03 June 2012 - 08:22 AM
http://www.amazon.co...m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
can be used flush to ceiling, on wall behind or extended from ceiling. about as versatile as gets. as to positioning of the projector, I dont know which one your going for chris, but if it is the epson we were discussing earlier, just check the epson calculator on the epson australia website. plug in a few known numbers and will give you amount of vertical and horizontal shift allowed etc. as suggested by bbar if ok allow for pj to top of screen if not with the shift available on the epson am sure your probably going to be right in any case, but check the calculator
http://www.epson.com.../eh-tw9000w.asp
in the calculator, remember select the projector, plug in what you know ie distance from screen ceiling height, bottom of projector screen from floor (to allow for centre) etc
#21
Posted 03 June 2012 - 09:04 AM
:), on 03 June 2012 - 08:22 AM, said:
http://www.amazon.co...m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
can be used flush to ceiling, on wall behind or extended from ceiling. about as versatile as gets. as to positioning of the projector, I dont know which one your going for chris, but if it is the epson we were discussing earlier, just check the epson calculator on the epson australia website. plug in a few known numbers and will give you amount of vertical and horizontal shift allowed etc. as suggested by bbar if ok allow for pj to top of screen if not with the shift available on the epson am sure your probably going to be right in any case, but check the calculator
http://www.epson.com.../eh-tw9000w.asp
in the calculator, remember select the projector, plug in what you know ie distance from screen ceiling height, bottom of projector screen from floor (to allow for centre) etc
Yep, I went the UNV as they had none of the extension mount ones in black. Even when picture on Amazon was black the model was a 'W' which is white. See they now have a few (EXA's) in the Black also.
So, if you can, get the whole thing from Amazon [Exa which is the UNV with extension], if not get the PRG-UNV from Amazon at lowest price and get an extension here from Screen Technics, the importer of Peerless mounts.
I paid 103 US dollars but can't see any from Amazon in Black for that price now. I can only see white ones. It needs to be sold by amazon and not another store on Amazon. Moot if Op wants white anyway..lol
Edit: just checked and for some reason it won't ship the black to Australia but it will ship the white one!
Edited by bbar, 03 June 2012 - 09:18 AM.
#22
Posted 03 June 2012 - 09:55 AM
bbar, on 03 June 2012 - 09:04 AM, said:
So, if you can, get the whole thing from Amazon [Exa which is the UNV with extension], if not get the PRG-UNV from Amazon at lowest price and get an extension here from Screen Technics, the importer of Peerless mounts.
I paid 103 US dollars but can't see any from Amazon in Black for that price now. I can only see white ones. It needs to be sold by amazon and not another store on Amazon. Moot if Op wants white anyway..lol
Edit: just checked and for some reason it won't ship the black to Australia but it will ship the white one!
hehe amazon is a strange one ! I actually got mine from B&H photo, bit more pricey but I wanted silver to be difficult ! and amazon is a lot lot cheaper if can get from there. probably just have to check around on the web at time what is best price and where from
#23
Posted 08 August 2012 - 02:04 PM
:), on 03 June 2012 - 09:55 AM, said:
#24
Posted 08 August 2012 - 02:18 PM
chrisso1671, on 08 August 2012 - 02:04 PM, said:
If you have full light control and have no ambient light washing out the image, then there is no need to go grey. If you do not, then you may consider grey, however I would concentrate on full light control first.
#25
Posted 08 August 2012 - 02:42 PM
As Viera4 says, if you've got light control, a grey screen isn't necessary. A lot of the darker screens have high gain and this comes with issues such as directivity (if you're on an angle the picture is hard to view, like early LCD screens) and hotspotting (where the center of the screen is brighter). Plus high gain usually = high price.
Having light coloured walls is not ideal, but doesn't mean a grey screen is needed. Stopping light leakage around the edge of blinds is much more important.
Whereabouts are you? Sounds like it might help if you and the wife could see a proper set-up.










