Eli

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About Eli

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  1. I'd try to wire for the rears , that way you can add them later if you so choose. In a 6.5m deep room I think they will have some benefit. All being my personal opinion, I have a 7m deep room and find they are great. The new sound formats like Atmos mean more is getting sent to the back if you have it there. I'm not hugely familiar with that AVR although from what I can see it maxes out at processing 5.1.4, so if you did add rears you would need to upgrade it no matter what. Your options look to be the following, starting with the cheapest up front (but not necessarily longer term). 1. Buy the 9 channel AVR (processing and power) and upgrade to a new AVR later if wanting rears. 2. Buy an 11 channel AVR (11 processing and 9 power), then buy a small 2 channel amplifier later if wanting rears. 3. Buy an 11 channel AVR (11 processing and 11 power), like the X6300 or Anthem 1120. All assuming you don't want to run a second zone that requires further channels etc. In all the time I've been purchasing AV equipment, I've never really been happy when purchasing something well before I actually need it. Warranties expire, prices drop, new models come out and you have to store it for months. I rarely ever find I've saved money buying something 6 months or more out, plus you have the downsides of the aforementioned points. Personally I'd hold off - but that's just me!
  2. Thanks for the replies all. It is very frustrating - I'm starting to think of investing in a 4K blu-ray player (even though I don't have a 4K display) just so I can get the better audio releases.
  3. You have quite a deep room, and with two rows you'll benefit from going 4 Atmos speakers. Same deal with side surrounds with that depth. You really should be using side surrounds to fill the sides of the room, these sides are normally first before adding rear surrounds (such as when going from 5.1 to 7.1). Will your rear speakers not be on the wall also?
  4. Went to grab a copy of Hacksaw Ridge today after reading the great review on its audio over on bluray.com. Noticed the back cover states DTS Master Audio and also Dolby True HD (not Atmos). It appears the Australian release has been stripped down (again), but I was wondering if this may have been a misprint and if anyone had noticed it was actually Atmos? Don't like the chances but you never know.
  5. Subwoofer out is usually mono (there's only one LFE channel in 5.1/7.1), there's just two separate outputs so you don't need to use a Y splitter. It'll be up to the EQ on board to decide how to EQ the two subwoofers, as separate units (then combining results) or treating them as one. Without further investigation into these specific units my guess is they would be the latter.
  6. I have no idea what Peter just said but I used the electrician to run the speaker cabling and HDMI etc during the build. This did require a bit (read: a lot) of hand-holding to ensure they did the right thing, even after spelling it out to the minute detail. Some builders might allow you to run some speaker cabling yourself, but you'll need to check with them. Professional AV installers will generally have a lot better idea of what they're doing, but you'll obviously pay a bit more.
  7. I read it as though they are happier to sell you a copy off itunes or the like, rather than give you a free copy with your blu!
  8. I think that's Explosive's thread too
  9. Very true. The thick carpet in my HT was enough to stop air escaping under the door of the room sufficiently. You could barely feel any air coming out the vent as the room was already pressurised, so it got hot very quickly. My solution was to add a return air vent and duct, with lots of 'S' bends back to the hallway where the system return vent sits. Like Sands mentioned, I thought a split system has that sorted on its own. Evaporative and reverse cycle = ducting.
  10. You guys are making my head spin! Are you referring to Hamasaki 22.2 from a way back? Atmos in cinemas supports up to 61.3 - 61 speakers and 3 LFE, obviously they don't need to have exactly that many though. There's also a lot more than the 9 Atmos cinemas in Australia now. Cinemax is a "premium" type of cinema, which is part of the Grand Cinema chain, much like VMAX is to Event Cinemas. They may have bigger, better audio and sound, or better seating. It doesn't necessarily mean they have Atmos though. Atmos is a sound format, not a type of cinema. Again, 61.3. The processor you link may be limited to 48 though. Yes, Atmos was designed for cinema. But so was 5.1 and 7.1 and both have been implemented extremely well at home. IMHO, Atmos at home is actually quite comparable to the cinema when using in or on-ceiling speakers. I have never heard Atmos enabled modules so can't comment. CWT makes some great points above. Instead of trying to cater for a larger area in the cinema, you can use less speakers but still maintain a sweet spot. It's not really all sorts of names, it's a naming convention... ear level speakers, then LFE channels (which some people use as number of subs running off one channel) and then overhead effect speakers. Atmos enabled modules aren't trying to pretend that one speaker becomes two. They are trying to say that the discreet output for that channel is played through the upfiring speaker and reflects off the ceiling and down to you. You are not meant to hear it directly from the point source, hence why they try to implement different specs for these speakers (eg. limiting the non-directional output). Yes, this opens itself up to some of the issues that you mention on the page before. CWT has covered this above I think - it is processed quite well. Not to mention Atmos and DTS:X are being built into most AVR's nowadays which aren't really demanding a premium price.
  11. Is anyone else confused by this post? Captain, I'm not sure what Blairy did wrong but he is saying that installing in-ceiling speakers is hard as he doesn't have much room between his ceiling and the floor of the room above.
  12. Oh Chops, thanks for the laugh. Sorry to hear of your frustrations though. GLWTSS.
  13. Hi Ryn, you may want to look into a stereo or home theatre receiver with radio and bluetooth built in. Do you have any limitations (size of speakers or receiver etc) or special requirements? If you don't plan to upgrade to surround sound later, a stereo receiver and a pair of floorstanders/bookshelves may fit the bill. Perhaps something like http://au.yamaha.com/en/products/audio-visual/hifi-components/stereo-receivers/rs202/?mode=model and some speakers with the remaining money?
  14. Can I ask the reasons for building the plaster - is it for aesthetics to line up with the cabinet? I'm guessing this will be costing you extra as well. The recess, if going non-AT will limit your screen size in the room for good - just keep that in mind. To put the speakers in front of the plaster seems (to me) to be bringing them quite a way out in front of the screen (depth of cabinet + depth of speakers). This is my opinion only, but I'd feel a bit weird having the speakers out in front of the outer 400mm walls, so far in front of the screen. I think it would just look a bit strange. You're pretty much 90% of the way there to having an AT screen setup, IMO, the cost of upgrading to AT material (approx $500) seems small in comparison to the benefits you'll receive in the room - having all speakers on the same axis, having the sound project through the picture, neat aesthetics... just to mention a few. You're spending all this money on the build and getting the room great, seems a shame to try to save this amount of money at the last hurdle. You could also pretty much pick any screen size you wanted. This is all my opinion of course - I'm sure you will enjoy the room whichever way you choose. I just think after spending all this money, going from good to great is only a few hundred more. Have you ever experienced a good AT screen setup with the movie sound coming through the image?
  15. If width is more limited than height then yes, picking the larger 16:9 screen would be the better way to go. One row of viewing helps as you don't need to mount the screen higher for a second row to see over the first. You are correct in saying that games, TV and some movies are 16:9, however most movies are shot in cinemascope (as opposed to "only certain" movies). The ratio does vary, but "most" movies are shot in scope format. Most animated movies are 16:9. If TV and gaming make up a decent percentage of your use then I'd be going ahead with a 16:9 screen.