Mikeyday

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  1. I understand now, the options you have listed are based on height restriction. If you could gain another 2mm (167mm), anything up to the Denon AVR-X6300H would fit however please remember that these things need to breath. Sometimes it can pay to work backwards and start with what you want to achieve in terms of features and technology then consider different ways of achieving that end. It may be that one of the ones listed will do the job, or it might be better to replace, adjust, reconfigure what you have now in the way of cabinetry or equipment to give you the flexibility you may need now or in the future.
  2. Actually, I was wrong, Denon has added individual EQ for 2 subs to the lower X3300W with the latest models. FWIW, the Marantz-nr1607 is only 50W per channel at 8 Ohm.
  3. The problem being that to get them set up as separate units as Hopefullguy quite rightly suggests is better, one would have to step up to the 4000 series in Denon (AVR-X4300W) at 3 times the price for brand new. (would like one myself actually)
  4. Each to their own I think. I built a couple stands for my lounge room just to push them a little further apart. The stands double as storage for disks. These speakers are front ported so can sit back close to the wall.
  5. Hi Wisha, I just noticed this comment. You need to find the SPDIF output connection on your TV. It's probably just called "COAX" and will be separate to the Yellow/Red/White inputs. Try to find that one and connect it, It should work then.
  6. Hi Wisha, These guys have given you great information on what to do; I had a similar problem recently with a Panasonic soundbar and old Samsung TV. On the Panasonic, from the menu you will find something like "Input Select". Determine the name of the optical input if it has multiple digital inputs (D in-1 or D in-2) or something similar. Select that as an input. On my Panasonic soundbar I think this can be done from the remote by scrolling through External inputs and it is named "TV". On the TV in the sound menu you must set your SPDIF to on, or auto or as CWT mentioned both TV and Panasonic may have bitstream or PCM (not a choice on mine). Although my equipment is a little different, the basics should be the same. Hope this helps otherwise check that you DC power is working on the converter and dust caps are off the optical cable. If this doesn't work, the guys above are sure to have more suggestions.
  7. I have a similar problem in my room; although I have solid double bi-fold doors into the room that don't seal well and solid doors to the next areas of the house which helps a bit with sound, I still have issues with heat building up in the room in summer as I have ducted evaporative cooling and the air gap around the door isn't sufficient. I can open the windows a bit for air flow however then I can hear outside sounds and I know that outside can hear me. I am considering adding ceiling vents somewhere up behind the projector or even adding refrigerated ducted HVAC for a few rooms. Fortunately for you, there is an opportunity to plan it now before you build. Just be aware that small exhaust vents in a room with evaporative cooling will make air noise.
  8. Hey, you're the OP, anyway, it is still related to the cabinet design. I have in-wall and in-ceiling speakers in my theatre and they are practically invisible, however, a pain to move or change out if I change my mind. If I ever sell, they will most probably stay as part of the house. In-wall speakers will eliminate at least the visible speaker wires as they can run in the wall from a wall plate or opening behind the receiver. They will allow for a very clean look and give you greater flexibility with cabinet design, also they will allow you to place the L & R speakers closer to inline with your display rather than well below it although in theory, your LCR speakers should have the tweeters at the same level if possible. On the topic of rear ported speakers in cabinets, others on here will have more experience than me, for a short while I had a cheap rear ported centre in the cabinet in the family room, often dialogue was not clear and a little muffled. I replaced it with a higher quality front ported centre and the difference was amazing however, that could have been mainly due to the quality of the speaker itself. Almost all of my speakers in both rooms are bass reflex front ported speakers except my new Krix bookshelf speakers I have as rears in the family room. I would be happy to be corrected on this topic by those that have more knowledge with in cabinet speakers.
  9. I can't help but agree with brodricj on this one but You have already identified that you understand that this is a "compromise to achieve the necessary aesthetic look". If you do this, one thing that I would recommend is that you consider only either sealed speakers or front ported bass reflex speakers. rear ported speakers will most likely be boomy and echo in cabinets. This is for both L & R and the centre. Most of us have made some compromises in both our multi purpose living areas and our theatres based on aesthetics, room shape, cost or WAF. As long as you understand the compromise and are happy with it. Back on your original topic, have a chat with your cabinet maker regarding methods to hide the cables, I had this issue with rear surround speakers under my breakfast bar in the kitchen, I ran the cables under the bench in a white conduit with a clip on cover. It was low enough and neat enough that you couldn't see it. I just recently changed it from a 6.1 to 5.1 and it was simple to un-clip the cover and change the wires.
  10. I like your idea of the floating cabinet however, as you state, being fixed to the wall you won't be able to bring it out to get to the cables if they are hidden in a channel at the back but still possible to hide the cables there. I have had both my cabinets designed and built with the backs recessed where the equipment is for cables. The first one has an opening and shelf for an Epicentrix (which I never did buy) so the receiver and centre speaker sit offset side by side there. The second one in the theatre has an opening in the centre for the receiver. The big mistake that I made with both of them was the limited size for the receiver height plus other equipment. I will always now be limited to the mid to lower end units or to place any player in a different location. If you plan to have the cabinets for longer than your current equipment, keep this in mind; designing the cabinet for the equipment that you currently have or plan to have can be limiting.
  11. It is may be hard for anyone here to say, it depends on cabinet finish (vinyl, Jarrah, etc.) and really what someone is willing to pay. I have seen them sit for a while at a lower price and also sell quickly just in that price range. I personally think that your price range is a little high for a pair of 15 to 20 yo Mk2 unless they are in perfect unblemished Jarrah timber veneer finish. People may also want to know Ohm rating and front/rear ported (although I think these were mainly rear ported). Photos including an in focus shot of the ID plate would help. Good luck with the sale.
  12. If you are just wanting a cheaper pj to tide you over until 4K comes down in price a bit and you are keen on Epson, why not look for something priced in between. If you don't mind a low lamp hour second hand unit, you could pick up a 9200 or 8200 for a bit over your original $1k budget but well under the price of a 6700.
  13. I have the KRIX Symmetrix as Left, Centre, Right behind an AT screen. and Atmospherix A20 in-ceiling as surround but Krix Dynamix on walls for rears, For what they are, they all sound great. Build thread: http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?/topic/216909-budget-quality-ht-setup/&page=2#comment-2085907 Perhaps start a new thread to discuss this further.
  14. If you don't mind the risks involved in buying second hand, there are some great deals on the Sony 40ES and also the Epson TW9200, both on here and gumtree at the moment. This would leave you with extra money in your budget for sound and room treatment. Just a thought!
  15. I did visit and tour the KRIX factory on my search for discreet sound for my room; I would highly recommend it. It is great to see that Australia can produce world class products right here. Hansel, if you're considering KRIX, have a chat with them about your room size and requirements, Michael was very helpful in helping me choose a system to meet my needs. I am now replacing my other system with KRIX gear. The one thing that I did learn was that it doesn't pay to skimp on the subwoofer however that one is surprisingly large for that size room. But I am a little jealous