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About adante

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  1. Hi, i was planning to post a new thread but I do not appear to have permission to create new threads do that so hopefully this will do. Anyway, I am just wondering if there is much variance in dtv reception requirements from device to device - specifically, if the dtv reception requirements for a (somewhat suspect) twinhan dtv are substantially greater than for other cards or stbs. I am powering my setup off a pair of rabbit ears antennas. While this may sound stupid, it actually works quite well. I have a Winfast DTV1000-T, Compro DVB-T300, and some set-top-box I bought from aldi, and some mates laptop with a tuner (name of which I forget) - all of these work fine off it. However the twinhan visionplus is very VERY screwy. I have tried isolating to the twinhan card only but the results are the same. The fact that the rabbit ears can power everything else suggests to me that my reception is ok. I'm just wondering if a. visionplus cards in general have bad reception issues b. my specific visionplus card is cactus c. my reception is still screwed and it is some freak occurance that all my other devices work off it. basically, should I still be trying to fiddle around with reception/consider installing/investing in a proper antenna?
  2. hi guys can you explain what the 15% off dealie is? I'm really interested in getting one in brisbane for this $1600 price. tried ringing a few kmarts but they don't (or claim not to) know anything about it. Haven't been able to get through to the morayfield branch.
  3. to follow up on various recent and past comments about the darkness issues and contrast adjustment.. I was wondering why people were complaining about stuff being 'dark', and I think I see why. I connected a digital STB to the tv. This is a generic cheapass tevion unit, and works without issue on my old crt. Anyway the pictures are below, with the STB on the left (connected via the YPbPr, results are much same via S-VIDEO and AV) , and my HTPC (DVI output from mythtv) on the right This is fairly untweaked before anybody raises comments about how bright the picture on the right is. However, the point I want to raise is that I could not, at all, get any sort of satisfactory image out of the STB, no matter how I adjusted contrast/brightness levels. The contrast meter does not seem to do anything perceptible, so to be able to see into those dark areas I have to boost the brightness until it's absolutely ridiculous. So jarvil, I guess this is what you were complaining about. Sorry to say I don't have a solutio, but at least you're not alone out there. I'm not sure what input you're using? not sure if this was meant to make a point my I'm afraid it went totally over my head
  4. Hi digitaladvisor thanks for the comments. As mentioned I tried a windows laptop with an nvidia card without any luck. I have since tried another laptop with an nvidia card also without any luck in both DVI or D-SUB input. I have also tried powerstrip and the monitor did not respond to me attempting to force a 1360x768 signal. As for your comments regarding contrast and brightness, let me just say that the settings you suggest make dark scenes look incredibly dark and practically impossible to distinguish objects. I'm not sure what you mean about allowing myself time to adjust to the low light output of the LCD, but I hope that it isn't this, because I do not particularly want to get used to. Yes, the screen does look exceedingly bright, I believe I stated this in my original post, but the other alternative is exceedingly dark. Finally, with regards to your request to stop digging our own ditch with misinformation. Maybe I don't speak for everybody here but please understand that I, as I freely admitted in my original post, am not an expert in these things, but I am doing the best that I can based on my limited knowledge, I'm definitely not intentionally trying to add misinformation, and I don't think I've done anything outlandishy stupid. So it's hard to take what you said as as anything except derisive.
  5. which inputs are you using? I don't have any HDTV devices except my PC, and have been able to push out a 1024x768 (and for a moment, 1280x1024) signal via DVI, which is half HD (ie it's > 720 lines, and it 'displays' in a wide aspect ratio.. but strictly speaking is probably not HD)
  6. howdy, I rang these guys, after being put on hold 4 times (but for less than 30s in total, lol guess I caught them at lunch) I spoke to some wholesale guy. He said he'd never heard of this 40" lcd but he'd get back to me in a bit.. so here's to hoping.
  7. yeah, i'd like to find out a bit more about this.. both in specs and availability (brisbane anyone?)
  8. Hey jarvil, As I mentioned in my previous post, I'm about done with this screen. If I could have gotten this screen into 1366x768 it might have been its final saving grace, but I had no luck. If you want to give it a go, I suggest you start looking stuff for powerstrip tutorials (with regard to your query) - I admit I'm no expert on it either, but I believe the process should have been easier than what I went through. With regards to your talk about the contrast and the dark/white soup problem, I'm pretty sure that's a problem inherent to the screen which is due to its poor contrast ratio and I don't know if it can be 'fixed' per se - i.e., this is why expensive tvs are expensive and cheap tvs are cheap
  9. well i faffed around for another few hours and completely failed to get the elusive 1366x768 working. I have tried: - Linux box with a gf4mx, with about 16 trillion different modelines. After upgrading my drivers to 8756, the monitor does not seem to want to accept anything larger than 1024x768. (xorglog ) - Windows laptop with Geforce Go 5200, powerstrip, D-SUB output. Does all sorts of fun 4:3 resolutions including 1280x1024, but won't have a bar of 1360x768. - Windows laptop with Geforce Go 7200(?), powerstrip, DVI output. As above. Obviously I'm not competent enough to get this thing working at its native resolution, and to be honest if it's this much trouble (which, from the proliferation of posts on the internet it generally is, apparently), it's not worth it in my estimation. It's been fun, and it's been large, but I think I'll be returning this tomorrow.
  10. aldi's also selling a 37" lcd for $2k, don't know if it falls under budget, but thought it was worth a mention. - 8ms, 1000:1 contrast, 550 brightness, speakers, PIP and lots of inputs being discussed here
  11. You're quite right. But due to the contrast ratio (I think? I don't pretend to understand this stuff), setting the levels so that black is a reasonable black makes dark scenes look like horrible dark soup. I don't know if I can compare the contrast ratio directly to my 2405 computer monitor, which is also specced for 1000:1 contrast and 500cd/m brightness. However if I can, I should say that it is significantly worse than 2405 in terms of these levels.
  12. yep, thanks nico6 I did notice it but was hoping to avoid using it because the only 3mm to 3mm cable I've got is all of 20cm long. anyway I bit the bullet and moved the computer into some abnormal angle and plugged it in and behold.. works fine. I don't know if this is normal but I'm a bit annoyed you can't use RCA audio input with DVI/LCD. Also, one more picture to illustrate the awesomeness true black levels on this screen:
  13. the thread ended with some interesting points, but does anybody have an idea of when and for how much this would be? also guys, help a nub get a clue - when you talk 1080p, are you talking specifically about driving it via DVI from a HTPC or compatibility with the whole range of input types and devices that continue to baffle me? I'm interested in getting a cheap 1920x1080 tv so I can fulfill my lifelong dream of being able to code from bed.
  14. howdy guys, I had a bit of spare time (and cash :blink so I picked up this tv this afternoon, after confirming with the store manager that I could indeed return it if I found it didn't meet my requirements.. anyway after a lot of dicking around, and my impressions with the screen so far (keep in mind I don't really know that much about what makes a good tv screen etc). Firstly, the contrast is pretty damn awful, 'black' is really a fairly bright, and is quite a lot greyer than the bezel. In dark scenes its hard to distinguish whats what. Also, the backlight is fairly uneven. I didn't capture it very well on the camera but the screen seems to be composed of 4 vertical waves of varying backlight intensity, as well as a funny one in the bottom left corner. Viewing angle is.. I don't know. At about 120 degrees the colour starts to drop away. It's not a dramatic change and the picture still looks good by my estimation, but there is a difference from looking at the screen head on (I don't know if you would really notice it unless you looked for it). The image is still very watchable right up to the 160 degree field and beyond. Image quality in general.. well I'm probably not the best person to comment on because i'm not a real big expert on it, so yeah, it looks good to me As stated before dark stuff is a bit sketchy. As for the remote and OSD, well they seem pretty good by my estimation, but once again I have no perspective on this. There's a button to change the main signal source, and a button to change the PIP signal, so you can quite easily select between any combination of any 2 inputs in all sorts of fun PIP/PBP (can even have DVI and D-SUB, which my fp2405 can't do). I haven't tested any of the component inputs at all but there sure are a lot of them. At the moment 2 gripes: 1. I can't get external sound working at all!?!? I've got a 3mm to RCA plug adapter, and I've tried plugging it into EVERY RCA socket while a movie was playing (and showing on the screen) and have not been able to obtain sound. And these have been plugged into my old TV to confirm that there is sound. Maybe somebody could explain the inner mysteries of what plugs are supposed to do what. There's like multiple audio input plugs and I'm not sure which one I"m supposed to use (not that either seem to work). Relevant pages are here (also has the supported signals for those interested) 2. I can't get the !#!#@$!$@# into 1366x768 mode. I've tried my linux box on both D-SUB and DVI, which claims the EDID information sent to it says the maximum width is 1280, height 1024. How odd. Also tried connecting via d-sub on my windows laptop, but that only lets me specify 4:3 resolutions (I'm putting that down to windows more than anything else). I don't understand the wizardry of powerstrip enough to actually get it to do anything useful. I've also tried forcing a 1366x768 mode but it didn't like that much. So at the moment I'm not entirely sure if this thing can do 1366.. it seems like a toss up between that and my incompetence. Some pictures.. I don't really know how representative they are because I use a variety of varying quality sources and my camera sucks (actually my camera skills suck..). Sorry they are all really big but I'm lazy. - one very white black - trying to show the backlight variance... you can see the ripples, they are a fair bit more pronounced from and angle - desktop use, looks ok. I was going to show a gradient picture but i forgot, heh - lots of inputs - random scene from batman begins. note this is a dvdrip and looks about as sketchy on my 2405 - dark scene in batman. pretty bad. looked every so slightly better in real life - chocolate land, another dvd rip. Note the brightness on the edges, I think thats backlight leakage because it's not in the source. - some lost thing. this is digital SDTV - also sdtv - simpsons stretched - some band of brothers scene. This is probably the highest quality video I have on my system at the moment.. 1280x720 or something ridiculous - more bob. the bottom of the screen is not actually as bad as it looks (thats my camera), irl it was quite distinguishable - bob is awesome - PBP mode with TV (the built in analog) on the left and DVI-to-digitalTV-on-computer on the right. - same thing. didn't investigate the PBP features that much but they seemed to work quite well. At the moment it's kind of a toss up as to whether I'll keep this or not. The quality seems pretty decent - I had a quick scan of some 'big' tvs at jbhifi and harvey norman the other day and was shocked at how awful they looked, I assume because of the source. While the quality on this one isn't exactly stuff to write home about, it does the job better than what I witnessed, and the price seems decent. I guess what's a bit iffy is the 1 year warranty and what sort of support I can expect from tevion. Oh, and if I can get the sound in working Anyway if anybody has any comments of other things to check out I'd like to hear from you. I don't really know how to properly evaluate tvs, particularly in terms of image quality so any input would be welcome. e.g. some videos to watch or whatever
  15. Well, it was a long shot but it seems to have paid off - sort of. With the the link you provided, I threw the 2 'broken' cards into my windows PC and ran the e2prom program. Anyway, on both of the cards the first 8 bytes of eeprom were different from what bear posted. I can't remember exactly, but the first broken card was off (something like 05 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF), and the second card was totally blank (FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF). (Just FYI, from the original post it is supposed to be 05 00 00 00 00 00 00 FB FF). Anyway, it got a little wierd, because after updating the first card, I put it back into the linux box and it worked right off the bat, so I thought, sweet! With the second card, when I put it into the linux box, it completely failed. Linux was unable to identify/use the device (dmesg didn't recognize the ids). LSPCI -v showed the device was showing up with the right id's (interestingly this card was a 036E, while the other two were 0878) but linux didn't like it. Anyway, I put it back into my windows box and ran e2prom again to verify I hadn't made a mistake. It looked all right, but just on a whim I blanked the eeprom (set it all to FF, including the last 4 bytes), and then set it appropriatelly. Then I ran the twinhan software to check to see if the card was detecting ok, and it seemed to be (unfortunately I don't have any antenna access where my windows box is, so couldn't actually test it there). After throwing it back into my linux box.. it was all sweet. Everything seems to be working fine now, and all 3 cards can record simultaneously. In retrospect I have to admit it's an odd situation. If the eprom changes did actually have some effect, I'm surprised the cards could work at all with it being scrambled. I also suspect the third card is on it's last legs, so I won't be too surprised if it up and dies on me in the near future. Of course this is not the first time I've had 'firmware' problems with the Twinhans. When I originally bought these and was setting them up, once they went into some sort of freeze. After 2 hours of module fiddling and kernel recompiling, and it turned out all that was needed was a cold-boot (I'd just been hitting the reset switch). Anyway just wanted to let you guys know what happened and say thanks a lot for the advice. I knew it was a long shot when I asked but I'm happy to be able to get some more use out of these 2 cards