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Kingray Datasheets?


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#1 Nightblade

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 03:12 PM

Hi, does anyone have datasheets for the following equipment:

MHU20 (mast-head amp)
MH21 (power-supply)
EV-224 (4-way splitter)

I couldn't find anything useful via google. I guess it's all too old?

#2 Tazzy2Heads

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 04:34 PM

Hi, does anyone have datasheets for the following equipment:

MHU20 (mast-head amp)
MH21 (power-supply)
EV-224 (4-way splitter)

I couldn't find anything useful via google. I guess it's all too old?

Hi 'Nightblade'
What do you want to know ? I have somewhere, If it's old stuff with the circuit board in the weatherproof plastic boxes and not in metal cases inside the plastic weather proof boxes it may not be suitable for digital TV in your area as the connections will be saddle and clamp and not 'F' connector type and the
shielding continuity will be broken at the plastic weatherproof boxes, and it will be designed for Analogue only and not necessarily the best at the new Digital
frequencies etc.
Tazzy

#3 M'bozo

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 06:40 PM

Hi, does anyone have datasheets for the following equipment:


Yes, but can't be bothered copying & uploading them.


MHU20 (mast-head amp)


MHU20:

44-230MHz: -1dB gain, 520-860MHz: +20dB gain, MAX OUT: 2 CH 109dBV, NOISE FIGURE: 4dB, INPUTS: 2x75Ohm, FILTERS: MHz HP520, VOLTAGE: 22VAC 48mA, POWER PASSING: "B" Link.

MH21 (power-supply)


MH21:

VOLTAGE: 240-22V AC, MAX. CURRENT: 150mA, PROTECTION: Posistor, OUTPUTS: 2x75Ohm (switchable), TYPE: Saddle Screw, APPROVAL NO.: Q88020




EV-224 (4-way splitter)


I couldn't find anything useful via google.


Don't know that model number. However, have installed hundreds of EU224. You could search for that number.


I guess it's all too old?


Yep. Just likie me :D :D :D

#4 alanh

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 07:47 PM

Nightblade,
GME have reorganised their website
Kingray website
The latest information is there.

Remember also that for digital TV from Mt Wellington, only band 3 will be used from now on. So what you want is an antenna and masthead amplfier designed only for band 3 to eliminate any interference.

Get the best reception - Hobart will also be useful. Remember to check if there are any UHF translators covering your location.

AlanH

#5 Nightblade

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 08:24 PM

M'bozo, thanks for the info.

Tazzy, since you asked: :)


I'm in Acton Park watching DTV via a bounced Mt Wellington signal which works fine except for ABC which often breaks up at night and/or when the weather is bad.

The wiring goes something like this:

Newish VHF "digital antenna" (model unknown) -> ~1m coax (might be quad) -> mast-head amp (MHU20) -> ~8m old pre-digital coax -> 4-way splitter (EV224) -> ~20m old pre-digital coax -> old wall outlet (a) -> ~4m old pre-digital coax -> old wall outlet (b) -> STB.

I'm just wondering what I should look at first to stop ABC falling off the digital cliff. Obviously the cheapest/easiest thing will get looked at first.

The extension from old wall outlet (a) to (b) is an ugly piggy-back wiring job. Would it help much if I crimped in a nice clean F-connector bypass joint?


(Yes I do get impulse interference from all the old wiring and connectors, but it doesn't really bother me.)

#6 mtv

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 08:35 PM

First thing to do.... replace all the old coax with RG6 Quadshield.

#7 Nightblade

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 08:49 PM

First thing to do.... replace all the old coax with RG6 Quadshield.


0.01% chance of that ever happening I'm afraid.

Edited by Nightblade, 04 December 2011 - 08:51 PM.


#8 Tazzy2Heads

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 09:31 PM

M'bozo, thanks for the info.

Tazzy, since you asked: :)


I'm in Acton Park watching DTV via a bounced Mt Wellington signal which works fine except for ABC which often breaks up at night and/or when the weather is bad.

The wiring goes something like this:

Newish VHF "digital antenna" (model unknown) -> ~1m coax (might be quad) -> mast-head amp (MHU20) -> ~8m old pre-digital coax -> 4-way splitter (EV224) -> ~20m old pre-digital coax -> old wall outlet (a) -> ~4m old pre-digital coax -> old wall outlet (B) -> STB.

I'm just wondering what I should look at first to stop ABC falling off the digital cliff. Obviously the cheapest/easiest thing will get looked at first.

The extension from old wall outlet (a) to (B) is an ugly piggy-back wiring job. Would it help much if I crimped in a nice clean F-connector bypass joint?


(Yes I do get impulse interference from all the old wiring and connectors, but it doesn't really bother me.)

'Nightblade'
The MHU20 amp is UHF ONLY, it only DIPLEXES THE VHF signals into the system with a small loss of VHF signal.The VHF antenna was probably put up
by someone without a meter to get TDT channel 10 from MT WELLINGTON before the ACTON area repeater on SINGLE HILL was converted to DIGITAL.
ALL CHANNELS are now available from SINGLE HILL as DIGITAL IN THE UHF BAND for the Acton area. Do you have a UHF Antenna on the mast feeding
into the MHU20 amp pointing towards Single Hill ?If you do you may already have the correct channels tuned, but as the TV tunes the VHF from MT Wellington first before the UHF band there the ones you keep getting . The DIGITAL channels for ACTON area from SINGLE HILL are SBS-35,ABC-36,
WIN TV-37,SOUTHERN CROSS-38 and TDT-51.
If you have a UHF antenna on the mast pointing towards SINGLE HILL pull out the antenna lead from the TV/ PVR on put it into Auto tune via the menu etc
let it tune through the VHF BAND WITHOUT the antenna so it won't find any MT WELLINGTON signals and plug the antenna back in AFTER VHF CH 12 and
before you get to say ch30 UHF and then stop tuning after you get 19 tv and 4 Radio stations and you should have the TV/PVR tuned to SINGLE HILL if you
have the CORRECT antenna and are in the SIGNAL AREA for that Transmitter Site.
Tazzy.

#9 M'bozo

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 06:39 AM

0.01% chance of that ever happening I'm afraid.


I'm curious. Why is that? Rental?

Moving right along:


The extension from old wall outlet (a) to (B) is an ugly piggy-back wiring job. Would it help much if I crimped in a nice clean F-connector bypass joint?


I can't see where the MH21 fits into this - is it part of this "ugly piggy-back wiring job"?

Refitting (or replacing) cables with correctly terminated connectors is certainly worth trying. The screw/saddle connections on the MH21 aren't the best in the world, if you're playing with that as well.


I'm just wondering what I should look at first to stop ABC falling off the digital cliff. Obviously the cheapest/easiest thing will get looked at first.



I would suggest to see if you can get a usable signal on UHF - UHF frequencies are generally less affected by impulse noise as well.

Since you have been given the channels for UHF, the easiest way to tune would be a factory reset on the STB, followed by a mains power reset to the STB, & then a manual tune for the channels of interest.

If the STB doesn't have a factory default option, then an automatic tune with the antenna lead disconnected from the STB, power reset, followed by a manual tune, is another way.

I am assuming here that the UHF antenna, masthead amplifier, cabling, splitter, power supply are all functioning, and the UHF antenna is picking up a usable signal.

You can use the MySwitch website here to get an idea of what coverage might be like at your address. (although I note MySwitch seems to be down as of the time of this post.) Edit: My bad, the site changed & had to clear my cookies out to get it right.

Of course, if at any point, I am telling you how to suck eggs, I apologise. :D

Edited by M'bozo, 05 December 2011 - 01:22 PM.


#10 Nightblade

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 01:58 PM

M'bozo:

The house wiring is unlikely to be upgraded due mainly to the cost.

The MH21 is currently unused and disconnected.

I do know how to drive my STB, so you can save your typing fingers there at least. :)


Correct me if I'm wrong (I probably am) but I thought the primary benefit from quad was eliminating impulse interference?

#11 Tazzy2Heads

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 02:43 PM

M'bozo:

The house wiring is unlikely to be upgraded due mainly to the cost.

The MH21 is currently unused and disconnected.

I do know how to drive my STB, so you can save your typing fingers there at least. :)


Correct me if I'm wrong (I probably am) but I thought the primary benefit from quad was eliminating impulse interference?

Hi 'Nightblade',

If the MHU20 amp is in line on the mast I can only guess that it also has a UHF antenna pointing somewhere, either MT Wellington for SBS and STHNX analogue or towards Single Hill for the 4 analogue channels originally and now Digital.This amp needs power up the coaxial cable to work to amplify the UHF
signals . If the MH21 is disconnected what is powering the AMP?.If there is only a BAND 3 VHF DIGITAL antenna on the roof and that's what you want to use
take the MHU20 out of line and replace it with an 'F' type barrel cable joiner. This may get you some more Quality to your ABC VHF signal to get you above the 'cliff edge' to get out of trouble for now.You need a Digital Signal Meter to sort out the signal levels and Quality and maybe relocate the antenna for better quality signals
Tazzy.
,

#12 mtv

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 03:25 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong (I probably am) but I thought the primary benefit from quad was eliminating impulse interference?

RG6 Quadshield does indeed reduce impulse noise pick-up from the cable (but not from the antenna) but it also keeps the signal in, reducing signal loss/attenuation compared to a lot of older coax.

If your coax is well-shielded with a foam dielectric, it should be fine, eg: even older dual-shield RG59... but the worst kind of coax for digital is the air-spaced coax that has a very open weave braid.

Apart from it being lossy... it produces very high BER and low MER... both very detrimental to digital signals.

I regularly see instances of excellent digital signals at an antenna, but by the time it reaches the outlets via air-spaced coax, there is often severe data errors, even to the point of no digital reception at all.

As in any TV signal distribution chain... it's only as good as the weakest link.

#13 M'bozo

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 04:57 PM

The house wiring is unlikely to be upgraded due mainly to the cost.


OK, so it hasn't been mentioned yet: what type of cable is it?

The MH21 is currently unused and disconnected.


For the point of an exercise, is it worth the effort of connecting it into the system to see if you can get a UHF signal? (it will need to be fed up the power pass port of the splitter, assuming that the power supply even works.)

I do know how to drive my STB, so you can save your typing fingers there at least. :)


That was why I made the comment about sucking eggs.

Correct me if I'm wrong (I probably am) but I thought the primary benefit from quad was eliminating impulse interference?


The primary benefit is improved EMI shielding. The loss of signal in a cable at a particular frequency is primarily related to the physical dimensions of the inner & outer conductors, and the type of dielectric chosen, not the number of shielding layers.

#14 clipper

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:59 AM

The wiring goes something like this:

Newish VHF "digital antenna" (model unknown) -> ~1m coax (might be quad) -> mast-head amp (MHU20) -> ~8m old pre-digital coax -> 4-way splitter (EV224) -> ~20m old pre-digital coax -> old wall outlet (a) -> ~4m old pre-digital coax -> old wall outlet (B) -> STB.

The extension from old wall outlet (a) to (B) is an ugly piggy-back wiring job. Would it help much if I crimped in a nice clean F-connector bypass joint?


My guess is that your original UHF antenna was taken away when the 'newish VHF" antenna was put in place. The MHU must pass VHF without the need for the power injector. Wondering why the 4-way splitter is needed? You said the second outlet is piggy-backed off the main wall-plate. At least bypass the 4way split with a couple of F- connectors and a joiner, put more f-connectors behind the wall outlet and install a 2-way splitter and replace both wall outlets with F-PAL types. If you still have probs then probably need to remove both the VHF antenna and MHU ( won't need it for two outs providing Signal Hill is viewable) and
replace with a Band 4/5 antenna mounted with correct polarity.

#15 Nightblade

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 02:28 PM

The power supply has been re-connected and turned on. ABC from Single Hill UHF working fine for the moment. Time will tell.

The 4-way splitter is there for outlets in other rooms. Only two are wired up atm.

Edit: I don't know how to identify the type of coax.

Edited by Nightblade, 06 December 2011 - 02:29 PM.


#16 mtv

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 03:00 PM

The 4-way splitter is there for outlets in other rooms. Only two are wired up atm.


Regardless if only one or all four ports are used on a 4-way splitter, the signal has been divided in 4.

If you only need 2 outlets operating, use a 2-way splitter.

That will reduce signal attenuation.

You really need to engage the services of a professional installer with a digital meter/analyser to determine what the problem's is/are.

Once factual, accurate signal information is available, then a solution can be determined...... otherwise it's all just guessing, even the educated guesses.

#17 Tazzy2Heads

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 03:27 PM

The power supply has been re-connected and turned on. ABC from Single Hill UHF working fine for the moment. Time will tell.

The 4-way splitter is there for outlets in other rooms. Only two are wired up atm.

Edit: I don't know how to identify the type of coax.

Good to hear progress has been made.
If the coax is 'good stuff' it will be marked on the black sheathing what it is , e.g. RG6, RG59 or RG6Q for Quadshield etc on recent 'stuff' every Meter along
the cable.Quadshield has 4 Layers of shielding, braid , then foil, then more braid and foil again and then the white center and center conductor.
If you get around to rewiring you will need to get 'F' connectors to suit Quadshield.Probably best to get an installer to terminate the ends at least if you are
not familiar with crimp on connectors etc.
When you put in a 4 way splitter it doesn't matter whether you connect 1 or 4 cables you loose the same amount of signal at each leg, the only way to reduce
the losses is to use a splitter with less splits , 2 way or 3 way.However if the AMP is working ok it will more than make up for the splitter losses.
By the way can you see Single Hill from where you are ?
Cheers Tazzy

#18 Tazzy2Heads

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 03:34 PM

Regardless if only one or all four ports are used on a 4-way splitter, the signal has been divided in 4.

If you only need 2 outlets operating, use a 2-way splitter.

That will reduce signal attenuation.

You really need to engage the services of a professional installer with a digital meter/analyser to determine what the problem's is/are.

Once factual, accurate signal information is available, then a solution can be determined...... otherwise it's all just guessing, even the educated guesses.

Sorry 'mtv' I must have been doing my one finger poking while you were posting.
Cheers Tazzy